When you take a trip to foreign countries, what do you expect? Or, to put it another way, when people from other countries come to Japan, what do you think they expect most? The answer is “Food.” According to a 2019 survey by the Tourism Agency on the consumption trends of foreigners visiting Japan, before coming here, they anticipate experiencing Japanese cuisine more than natural vistas, historical structures, and onsen hot springs.

Now, what comes to mind when you think of Japanese food? There may be many answers such as sushi, rice, miso soup, ramen noodles, soba noodles, grilled fish, sashimi, fried chicken, dishes from a tea ceremony, eel dishes, and others. It is impossible to choose just one as representative of Japanese food. The sushi craze started in America in the 1970s, and the word “Sushi” became well-known around the world. Following this were worldwide popularities of tempura, ramen, and yakitori.  

The history of Japanese cuisine is very long. The original food culture of raw food and dashi broth has been mixed with elements of Chinese and Western foods, developing into a unique food culture that is totally different from others in the world. There are many food lovers, all of whom don’t hesitate to stand in line at the door of a restaurant for hours to eat good dishes. It is our custom to choose seasonal ingredients each season, or to eat the local specialty food when visiting each place. On TV, there are many food programs about cooking and food trips.  

Japanese food culture developed significantly during the Edo period. For example, the four typical Japanese foods nowadays, soba, tempura, hand-rolled sushi, and grilled eel, were born in the Edo period. 

The era of civil wars ended at the beginning of the 17th century, marking the start of the Edo period. From then on, Japan experienced 260 years of peace. More and more people came to Edo from every part of Japan. People in Edo could devote much time to their daily lives instead of fighting battles and surviving as they did during the period of civil wars. The people in Edo, whether samurai or commoners, spent considerable time and effort studying how to improve their cuisine. Samurai cooked for the Tenno Emperors or Shogun Lords, while commoners sold tempura and sushi at food stands in Edo. As a result, various local foods were introduced to Edo, especially many condiments like soy sauce, salt, mirin sake, miso, and oil from Osaka, which was called “Japan’s Kitchen.” The cuisine there developed in accordance with the growth of Edo Town. This is how Edo cuisine was established. 

Traditional Japanese food is called “Washoku” in Japanese. Washoku was listed in UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2013. It is worldly recognized as healthy food with good balance of nutrition. Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries pointed out the four features of Washoku.  

Next, we will examine in detail the following five key aspects of Japanese cuisine: rice along with complementary side dishes, umami-rich dashi broth, the art of plate arrangement that reflects the seasons, raw food preparation techniques, and the fusion of Japanese and Western dietary cultures.

Firstly, it should be mentioned that rice is the staple food of the Japanese people. Washoku primarily consists of rice and side dishes that complement it. There are several theories on the history of rice in Japan. It is said that around the 5th century BC, agricultural people from the Korean peninsula introduced rice cultivation to Japan. This cultivation began in Northern Kyushu and within approximately 100 years had spread to the Seto Inland Sea area and even Kanto. By the late Jomon period, it had spread all around Japan. After this, rice went beyond something edible to be the standard for the price of things, annual tax, and currency. Rice was sometimes elevated to the level of spirituality, as shown in Japanese words like “Kokurei” (grain spirit) and “Inadama” (rice spirit). It is believed that each grain in a steamed rice dish has a spirit inside. In childhood, many were told by their parents not to leave a single grain in the rice bowl. The reason is not only that it is wasteful, but also because rice has been used as currency and is considered spiritual.

The close relationship between Japanese people and rice is found in Japanese mythology. In the mythology, the supreme goddess Amaterasu ordered her grandson, Ninigi-no-Mikoto, to descend from Heaven to the earthly realm as its ruler. It is said that after he landed, he introduced rice to the people. A picture exists that depicts the scene where Amaterasu passes rice stalks to Ninigi-no-Mikoto. People grow rice with great care as a gift from the gods, and during the autumn harvest, they offer rice as an expression of thankfulness. This event is known as the ‘Niiname Festival,’ held on November 23 across Japan. (‘Nii’ means ‘new’ or ‘first,’ and ‘name’ means ‘feast’). Through this history, rice has become the foundation of Japanese dietary culture. 

Amaerasu passes Ninigino rice stalks

The next keyword is ‘Umami Dashi Soup.’ Rice, known for its mild flavor, is a staple food in Japanese cuisine; additionally, since Japanese Buddhism historically prohibited the consumption of meat, individuals opted for ingredients other than meat, such as fish, vegetables, and mushrooms and developed methods of seasoning. As a result, dashi soup made from kombu seaweed, dried bonito flakes, or other sources became the base for seasoning Japanese food during and before cooking.

Dashi contains glutamic acid, a component of umami, which enhances the food’s flavor. The term ‘umami’ has already been adopted into the English language, and through the condiment product ‘Ajinomoto,’ umami became known worldwide. Now it is listed as one of the five elements of taste, along with sweet, sour, salty, and bitter—the previously recognized four tastes. 

Glutamic acid was discovered in kombu dashi soup by Dr. Ikeda, a professor at Tokyo Imperial University, in 1907. Dr. Ikeda is often selected as one of the ten greatest inventors ever in Japan.  

Dr. Ikeda Naganae

Taste is not the only aspect of enjoying Japanese food. We also appreciate how the arrangement expresses both the current season and its seasonal ingredients. Washoku incorporates ingredients sourced from both the sea and the land, serving dishes arranged with delicate placement and beautiful color patterns, often accompanied by seasonal flowers and leaves. It is also particular about the shape and color of the vessels, ensuring that Washoku provides a dining experience enjoyed not only for its taste but also for its appearance. You can fully enjoy this feature of Washoku at high-class Japanese restaurants serving course meals or at quality establishments serving tempura and sushi.

A characteristic of the cubic arrangement is that it makes it easier for diners, who primarily use chopsticks, to pick up food. There are some basic rules regarding the placement of dishes. Regarding dish placement, rice should be on the left side, while the soup dish should be on the right. Fish should be placed with its head on the left and its belly facing toward the diner. Additionally, there are superstitions regarding luck associated with food. The number of pieces of food, such as sashimi, should be odd, as odd numbers are considered luckier than even numbers. In certain instances, specific foods are eaten to pray for particular outcomes. For example, people eat soba noodles on New Year’s Eve to cut off the evil things from the past year. To Western people, who are familiar with flat arrangements suitable for eating with forks and knives, the beautiful cubic arrangement of Washoku is very attractive.  

In Japan, for about 1200 years until the Meiji Restoration, eating meat was prohibited by law due to Buddhist beliefs that considered eating meat unclean. As a result, people followed a pescatarian diet consisting of fish, rice, and vegetables. Japan is surrounded by the sea, rich in fresh fish and other marine products. In the Kamakura period, the custom of consuming raw fish developed while the use of wasabi and soy sauce also became popular due to their antiseptic properties. Japanese people love to eat food raw, such as raw egg over rice, horse sashimi, fish sashimi, and whole squid in one swallow. However, many foreigners dislike eating raw food, saying things like, “The texture is bad,” “I care about the hygienic safety,” or “It is just cruel.” In America, where people were not familiar with the custom of eating raw fish, sushi was made with processed foods like kamaboko, avocados, and cooked egg instead of raw fish. This kind of sushi became a big hit and was later named “California rolls.”

While Japanese people maintain traditional food cultures such as tea-ceremony meals and Buddhist vegetarian meals, they have also adopted foreign cuisines flexibly. In fact, ramen noodles came from China and tempura from Portugal, but many foreign foods, once brought to Japan, were adapted and improved, and have come to be recognized as Japanese food. After the Meiji Restoration, Western cultures, including meat dishes, were introduced to Japan. Japanese people, who had previously avoided eating meat, began to familiarize themselves with it, inventing new dishes like sukiyaki, beef dipped in egg. Chinese and Western foods were first introduced to restaurant towns like Asakusa and Yokohama. Later, these foods were adapted to suit Japanese tastes by incorporating elements of Washoku. This marked the beginning of the blending of Japanese, Chinese, and Western cuisines. Popular foods in Japan, such as cold ramen, shrimp chili, tenshin-han, fried shrimp, shortcake, millefeuille crepe, and yellow chestnut cake, are based on Chinese and Western cuisines, but they are thought to have originated in Japan. By using the Washoku style of dashi, arrangement, and raw fish, Japanese people can flexibly adapt every foreign food to suit Japanese tastes, creating a diverse world of Japanese cuisine.

No matter what religion Japanese people belong to, they always say “Itadakimasu” before eating a meal. This expresses gratitude not only toward those who produced the ingredients and cooked the meal but also toward the living things whose lives were taken (“itadaku” in Japanese) for the meal. In Japan, to avoid wasting the precious lives offered for meals, people have developed various ways of cooking to use as many parts as possible. For example, in making yakitori, chicken is cut and separated into small pieces of body parts such as the heart and bottoms, each of which is cooked in a suitable way. Even the bones left after this are used to make dashi broth. The Japanese attitude of not wasting anything, called “Mottainai,” is becoming increasingly known around the world as Japanese food becomes more popular. It is considered virtuous and polite to leave no food uneaten in Japan, which is the opposite of Chinese manners. In China, to express being full and satisfied with the hospitality, it is customary to leave a bit of food on the plates. This difference in manners highlights the Japanese perspective on food. 

Izakaya restaurants look unique to foreigners because they are places where people can drink and eat at the same time. Normally, overseas, people eat at restaurants and drink alcohol at bars or pubs. Izakayas surprise foreign visitors in many ways. They have extensive menus, and guests at one table often share dishes. They serve various kinds of alcohol, such as beer, Japanese sake, shochu, shochu with soda, and plum wine. They also offer an optional all-you-can-drink system. Operating hours are longer, with some staying open late into the night and others opening after dawn. This allows people to visit multiple drinking establishments in one night, a practice known as ‘hashigozake’ (drinking like climbing a ladder). There are affordable izakayas called ‘Senbero’ (meaning you can get drunk with 1000 yen) that offer 1000-yen set menus. There is a custom of finishing the evening drinking party at ramen shops, known as ‘Shime-no-Ramen’ (ending with ramen). These features exemplify Japanese drinking culture.  

Japanese workers often go to drinking places with colleagues or bosses after hours. This custom is called “Shigoto-no-ato-no-ippai” (a drink after work). They also often entertain their business clients with good food and alcohol. This is called “Settai” (entertainment for guests). As shown in samurai dramas, such as scenes where a merchant entertains an upper-class evil samurai with food and alcohol to give a bribe, this Settai culture has existed since ancient times. In Western countries, private life is very important, and work is never allowed to interrupt it. Therefore, this Settai culture seems unusual to them. Additionally, there are some unwritten rules for drinking parties and Settai occasions. During toasts, those of lower rank should lift their glasses lower than those of higher rank. Those of lower rank are supposed to pour alcohol into the cups or glasses of those of higher rank. Seating places are designated according to rank and age. This is another feature of Japanese drinking culture.

When did izakayas first appear? Their emergence is closely linked to the Sankin-Kotai system. The Tokugawa Shogunate ordered each daimyo, a feudal lord, to spend alternate years in residence in Edo. Thus, each daimyo had to travel to Edo with his servants, spending a significant amount of money. The aim of the Shogunate was to make each daimyo spend a vast amount of money. Their processions to Edo required the construction of major roads, such as the Five Major Roads. Naturally, resting places were needed, leading to the emergence of more post-station towns, inns, and eating places.

Some of these eating places served food and sake, similar to an izakaya nowadays. In time, commoners began to use these kinds of places to eat and drink. In the late 1730s, a shop opened in Kanda, Edo, serving “Misodengaku” (grilled tofu with miso paste) and sake. It earned a good reputation, and shops serving sake and food spread throughout Edo. 

Misodengaku Shop

Japanese sake is a must-try at every izakaya. It is said that sake originated soon after the introduction of rice cultivation in Japan. The oldest form of sake in Japan is believed to be ‘Kuchikamizake’ (sake made by chewing), as depicted in the animated movie ‘Your Name.’ In one story from the ‘Kojiki’ (Records of Ancient Matters) about the monstrous snake Yamata-no-Orochi, this creature was given sake to become drunk and was then killed by the god Susanoo-no-Mikoto. In Japan, since ancient times, sake has been considered a sacred drink and used for special occasions and important events.

For example, ‘Omiki,’ the sake offered to deities, is placed on the altars of Shinto shrines and in individual homes. Sake is drunk on special occasions such as New Year’s parties, wedding ceremonies, rituals for driving away evil spirits, and groundbreaking ceremonies. Even today, a wooden barrel containing sake is sometimes placed at the front during wedding parties or company opening ceremonies. The top lid of the barrel is smashed and opened by a wooden hammer. This ceremony is called ‘Kagami-biraki’ (opening of the mirror), where ‘kagami,’ meaning mirror, refers to the round-shaped lid of the barrel. Opening the barrel symbolizes unlocking the world of luck, so this is considered a form of prayer. After this, the holy sake is poured into the glasses of all the participants, who drink it together, wishing for God’s protection.  

Sake is roughly divided into four groups based on a combination of sweetness (sweet or dry) and richness (light or rich). By checking the alcohol content and acidity level on the label, you can determine the characteristics of its taste. Using this method, you can guess what the sake tastes like without tasting it, which is convenient for selecting sake for foreign customers at restaurants and souvenir shops.

Additionally, the price of sake depends on the quality of rice and the rice polishing ratio, which indicates how much the rice grains are polished. The more the rice is polished, the rounder it becomes and the less unpleasant its taste. If the unpolished part accounts for over 70%, it is ‘Honjozo’; under 60%, ‘Ginjoshu’; and under 50%, ‘Daiginjo.’ A higher polishing ratio means more grains are needed, which results in a higher price. Daiginjo is a high-class sake, but not everyone likes it because its taste is too pure.

Since about 80% of sake is water, the quality of water greatly affects the taste of sake. The taste of water changes according to its hardness. It is said that the softer the water, the softer and milder the sake tastes. Most Japanese water is very soft, which is good for making high-quality sake.

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