[EnglishMonger Wakasa]

This is about the ramen in Fukuoka Prefecture, for the foreign visitors. Most of Japanese people who come to Fukuoka for holidays want to enjoy Fukuoka food. When they think of Fukuoka, they often think of the ramen noodles. It is a good guide for the food fans from abroad. Even so, it needs to be largely cut off.

Introduction

Fukuoka Ramen is the Tonkotsu (pork bone broth) Ramen. This Tonkotsu soup originated in Fukuoka in the early 20th century in Kurume City, Fukuoka Prefecture. It was first served in the ramen stand named “Nankin-Senryo.” Later, it spread among Kyushu Island. 

I am surprised and, at the same time, proud that our Fukuoka-originated Tonkotsu ramen now spread not only to every part of Japan but also to foreign countries.

A while ago, when a Fukuoka local went to Tokyo for the first time and ate a ramen dish, he or she was always puzzled over why the soup was not white. I heard this told so many times. Until I graduated from high school, I firmly believed that ramen soup is white in the same way as ‘The sky is blue.’  

The ramen is so deeply rooted in the life of Fukuoka locals that you may come across a man who proudly and jokingly says,

 “One-third of my body is made up of ramen noodles.” (Don’t ask him what the rest elements are, and he would soon stammer.)

If you come to eat the soul food of Fukuoka people, we will be very happy, and even appreciative. If you begin to talk to us about this topic, most of us will be extremely talkative. 

Digression about the word ‘Hakata’

In this article, I use the word ‘Hakata’ for the ramen in Fukuoka city and the areas around. Some people are not satisfied, thinking the word ‘Hakata’ is not properly used. Like Naniwa is another name for Oosaka, Hakata is often used to mean Fukuoka. Even Fukuoka people do so. But strictly speaking, it means one administrative district of Fukuoka City, Hakata Ward, and more strictly speaking, one limited area of this ward. In this respect, Hakata Station is not in Hakata. There are some people very particular about the use of this word.

However, the Hakata Ramen has been coined commonly to refer to the ramen of the places larger than the real definition gives. Majority wins in the meaning of words. 

Hakata Yamakasa Festival

The scenes with the ramen in Fukuoka

Through Hakata Station, Itadzuke Airport, Hakata Port or Fukuoka Exit of the expressway, you come to Fukuoka City. In a moment, you are at a hotel or at a business trip place. Once you are settled, go out onto the streets and walk around.

Hakata Station

I’m sure you will come across the smell of Tonkotsu soup. Even in the morning, likely so. This smell, in my opinion, is one of the major four attracting food smell from food shops. It casts the spell on your hungry stomach. The other three good food smells are Yakitori (chicken skewers), Yakiniku (Korean BBQ) and Unagi (eel dish), but these three foods smell in the streets because the smoke in cooking should be vented out. It is also good because they can attract the people walking in the street.

But the Tonkotsu smell doesn’t. The cook doesn’t care about the effects of the smell. Rather, he doesn’t want it out. The smell seems to get through the windows and walls. 

There used to be a lot of visitors who complained about this smell, but now there are fewer and fewer, in my impression. Probably because the Tonkotsu ramen has spread all around Japan and even in the world, the people are getting used to the smell. The popularity has suppressed the Tonkotsu hatred. 

The significance of eating it in Fukuoka

The point is the tourism equation: Fukuoka=Ramen. It is well known like this to the people in other prefectures. Then, they may interestingly wonder, “How does it taste in the home place, actually?”

So, the answer for “Why so significant?” is very commonplace. “Because this is ‘Hon-ba,’ the very place!”

As for the very place, we could say Otaru is the Sushi place, Sendai beef tongues and Osaka Okonomiyaki, and these places are where the shops compete head-to-head with each other to attain the number one position in the region, or in Japan, maybe in the world. This is true of the ramen shops in Fukuoka.

I have been a ramen fan for a long time. The competition has been ruthless. For these thirty years, (maybe since the beginning of the ramen national fad), the top popular shop has been changing in Fukuoka. About thirty years ago, some ramen shop got the number-one position due to the comic books to be freely read in the shop and garlic squeezers on the tables, but now it is far away from the top in the ramen race. Ippudo and Ichiran, both of which are nationally famous, were the two top ramen shops but they are not now. Rather, Fukuoka ramen fans seem to avoid saying they are their favs. It might be because of being too famous. 

“Why are they trying to open so many shops outside Fukuoka?”

It may not be necessarily a good thing to turn a locally famous shop into a nationwide popular shop. It Is good to introduce local specialty food to other places, while it can lower the excitement of eating it in the very place. In this respect, ‘551 Butaman (pork bun) chain shops’ selling only in Kansai district are excellent!Fukuoka Ramen is the front line of Tonkotsu ramen competition, I should say. (About this, “No, it is Tokyo,” top ramen connoisseur might say argue.)

Fukuoka People’s Reaction for the Ramen

If you ask a Fukuoka local which ramen shop is the best, the answer will depend. Everyone has his own different answer. And you have to listen up to his talking about “My Ramen Shop” after getting the answer. The shop may be in his neighborhood. “Hakata Ramen sucks and I know the best,” one of the fans may say, “It should be that one outside Hakata district.”

What is the best Udon noodles shop? I think the answer might to be limited to several shops. This is a good contrast to the answers about the ramen.

Now, I would like to introduce good ramen shops in Fukuoka. It is impossible to introduce all, and there are some ranking sites, if you need them. I will do it in my way.

Nationally Famous Two Shops

These two have gone where no shop has gone and thrived before, Tokyo and Overseas. 

Ichiran and Ippudo.

Hakata Ippudo: Daimyo Head Shop  1-13-14 Daimyo, Tyuou Ward, Fukuoka City

The first shop to introduce is Ippudo. Some blog article told us about the shop: Ippudo was so popular as to have a waiting line made. https://www.tontonworld.com/entry/ippudo-new-york

It reported one ramen is worth more than 2,000 yen, but people waited in a line.

The beginning of the ramen boom was coincident with the time when Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum was founded in 1994. Mr. Kawahara, Ippudo President greatly contributed to this fad. 

Before this boom, there were already several Ippudo shops but only in Fukuoka. 

At that time, it served (still does) the ramen with unique names like Akamaru (Red Circle) and Siromaru (White Circle). It was popular but not so outstanding without a long waiting line. I often went to the Ippudo shop nearby my town and I just thought like Well, Akamaru was fairly good, which means it was an ordinary good ramen shop. But Mr. Kawahara got a reputation as the best ramen cook in the TV show named “TV Champion’ and after that, Ippuodo made a giant leap to be the top-runner leading the ramen world.

Ichiran: The head shop 4-3-2 Nakasu, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City

Besides the taste, its original serving style got the people’s attention and led the shop to be a famous ramen shop. Here is a piece of news about Ichiran newly opening a shop in Taiwan and being very popular there. https://www.foodsch.com/world/1501470690858/

Before the present popularity, it was just a small ramen shop in the residential area in Ogori City, to the 20 kilometers south of Fukuoka City. It was locally very popular and, to limit the number of the customers, it operated a system of “”Ichigen-san Okotowari,” which means “No accepting the first time customers without members.” It showed some hindrance for ramen fans, but I once went there with a member (no cards, but just the permission of the master) and found an old man cooking alone very busily. Because of his age, he closed the shop. 

But Mr. Manabu Yoshizawa took over the operation of the shop and changed it to the present style. His revolutionary ideas exploded and succeeded in the business. It is so famous that I don’t have to explain its unique ordering and eating system such as upright-standing boards on the counter and the questionary forms about the likes of the customer’s taste.

While Ichiran shops were only located in Fukuoka, I led my visitors to Fukuoka as the last shop of the party night (we call it ‘Shime) to this ramen shop, and they were very pleased. Even after midnight, a line was made in front of the shop. At that time, Ichiran was a kind of ‘Fukuoka’s pride.’

It is not so now. I mean, it isn’t a lovable Fukuoka ramen shop.

Iciharan has made some impact on the Fukuoka Ramen World.

When the original shop was closed, another shop named “Ichimi” presented itself to recreate its taste.Claiming the present Ichiran doesn’t taste like the original one, the shop ‘Horin’ was opened to show “This is the real Ichiran.”

Ramen can move the people’s mind, but apparently, Ichiran moved from the position of, say, many people’s ‘My favorite ramen shop.” 

The Present Popular Shops

I introduce the three most popular shops now, two from Fukuoka City and one from Kurume City: Hakata Isso, Hakata Ramen Shin-Shin, and Taiho Ramen.

Hakata Isso: Hatakta Station East Head Shop 3-1-6 Hakataeki Higashi, Hakata Ward, Fukuoka City

This is the shop often ranked as the number one in some surveys for good ramen shops. It is less than ten years since it opened, thought it has already been in the top position. Always, a line is formed for the people waiting. Some are holding a guidebook,and some are waiting with a carrying suit case at the side.

The soup is very unique. It may sound contradictory, but it is rich and light. The word “Bubble-style” has been coined to describe this soup. It is sometimes called Tonkotsu Cappuccino. Oh, Cappuccino, an Italian word, this can mainly attract the women!

Hakata Ramen Shin-Shin: Tenjin Head Shop  3-2-19 Tenjin, Tyuou Ward, Fukuoka City.

Tenjin is not in Hakata, strictly speaking, but no problem in the ramen world. At this shop, also, a line is formed, whenever you visit it. As for the ramen race, well, now, it is in the position, like “Isso may be on top, but we will return there, definitely.”

The soup tastes light and no fatty, and this is why Shin-Shin is very popular among the ladies. The staff are very genki, lively. Hakata Hanamaru, a TV celebrity from Fukuoka, often referred to this shop, which made it more famous. This is the only ramen shop with the name written in alphabets, and this is stylish. “Shin” gives us multiple meanings like the titles of popular movies, Shin Godzilla and Shin Ultraman.

Taiho: Head Shop 11-8 Toorihoka, Kurume City

This is the leading Kurume ramen shop. It opened one in Fukuoka City, too. It is very popular because of the rich soup called “Recalling Soup” and home-made noodles.

Probably, Taiho is the first shop that ornaments itself stylish with a hint of café. The shop inside is not that of old-fashioned ramen shops, but it plays 

The present owner is the son of the founder. He says he was often teased to be called “Son of a Ramen Cook” as a child. The anger and chagrin at that time enables him to be the top unbeatable leader of the ramen world. He gives us an impression like “I will make Kurume the top ramen town in Japan, and I will do harder in Hakata!” We can feel his strong intention even in the dish served there. 

The View of Ganso Nagahama-Ya

Ganso Nagahama-Ya: 2-5-25 Nagahama Tyuo-Ward, Fukuoka City.

Nagahama Ramen is one subgroup of Hakata Ramen. However, it is hard to define it clearly, and it is vague like the word “…Kei (style)” often used for the style of ramen shops. It would be OK to mean the ramen in Nagahama Area, port district.

The word ‘Nagahama Ramen’ sounds somewhat sentimental for the old ramen fans like us. 

Yeah, I used to go there and love it. Some may say, “Still so now.” It was the beginning of the Hakata Ramen.

The symbol of the old Nagahama Ramen is this shop. It remains its same old shop style and taste. It is said that this shop originated the thin noodles and kaedama system. This type of noodles was worked out to serve the ramen quickly to the hungry customers from the nearby port, and as thin noodles tend to be softened too soon, kaedama system was introduced to serve for those who eat a lot without eating soft noodles.

Let me show what the shop is like.

When you enter the shop, the first you will notice is that the staff are wearing white rubber boots. These seem to tell the customers,

“Don’t eat our ramen in a decent sophisticated way, or you will be beaten down!”

On the counter between the kitchen and dining space are placed lines of ramen bowls like those of soldiers. Ready for Action.

Not so today, but I remember we used to just order saying, “One bowl, please” without telling the firmness of the noodles. Soon after saying “One Bowl,” and just at the same timing of “Please,” the ramen was placed on the table. 

This is the shop where you should enjoy eating ramen as well as appreciating the shop atmosphere.

The Ramen at the Food Stalls “Yatai”

Food stalls are open in Nakasu and Tenjin, and they are loved by not only by local people but also by tourists.

When I was a poor student, it was like “I’ve got little money today, and I’ve gotta eat and drink in a Yatai (food stall).” Now, they have some prestige as good eateries. It may be an insult to the shop to say “I’ve gotta eat and drink in a Yatai,” because the Yatai plays a big role to attract people.”

They serve a variety of dishes that go well with alcohol, including ramen noodles. It is a good way to eat Yakitori first with beer and go on to ramen noodles there. 

The light and somewhat dull taste is very suitable for eating after the second, or third, or the fourth party. It is not for enjoying the taste, but for satisfying the stomach asking for the carbohydrates after much drinking. To the drunken mind, “Ha! sophisticated taste? What the heck!” 

The Yatai is a place not for mainly eating ramen noodles, but for enjoying the whole meal there. Ramen is a kind of dessert.

My secret ramen shop

Daiyo-Ken: Head Shop 1847-3 Hara jizo, Chikuzen, Asakura

The shop I show you last with confidence is not familiar to the ramen fans eating it only in Hakata area. It is located in a one-hour drive’s distance from Fukuoka City.

This is Daiyo-ken. 

When you are driving on the road from Ogori to Amagi, you will notice a lot of cars parked in the space in front of a dilapidated house. It is a ramen shop, you will notice.

It may be more than fifty years old, and just a run-down house. In the space there are signboards and banner flags. When you enter the house, the floor is an earthen floor. Is this really a ramen shop? you may wonder in disbelief.

But the taste of the ramen is excellent!It is not the ramen for those who want to eat a light and decent ramen in a fashionable shop.

Rich, Fatty, and Strong are the words for this ramen.

It was just good for me at a certain age. Rich, Fatty, and Strong…

The signboards and banners promote the soup is “alkaline.” What’s good in alkaline? most people wonder!

Nobody thinks “Alkaline soup, oh! it is very attractive.” It may be healthy, but who cares the healthy elements in a ramen shop?

So said, I like this ramen very much, and too much to stop saying anything.

When you go eat here, you can’t stop saying a word or two, probably. But watch out. This shop is closed in the early afternoon. 

In Conclusion

I have wanted to write about the ramen noodles in my area. But this is for foreign visitors.

Excuse me for sometimes writing in a style of acting funny, but this is just me, trying to entertain everyone.

The Fukuoka Ramen is making a great progress, and this is really amazing!

The Japanese version of this article is here. Click!

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